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We lined the Korean outfit B&Tailor in some element right here firstly of the month. For particulars on them, their historical past and their type, please learn that article.
It might sound a little bit odd splitting issues up like this, however I discover it makes for a extra purposeful archive. New commissions get their very own piece – branching off from the unique background article – and it creates a well-structured, constant useful resource. As with the whole lot else on PS, the hope is it is going to be helpful for a few years to return.
Now, on with the assessment.
There was a second after I picked up this coat on the morning of my final day in Korea final 12 months. I slipped it on, buttoned it up, and a smile unfold throughout my face.
“I may see instantly you favored it, it was such a reduction!” Sam Ahn advised me later (the fabric agent who had helped organise the journey).
It was true. I did, I actually did. It felt simple and comfy, but elegant and trendy. The road of the lapels and the silhouette had been flattering. After I popped the collar it sat completely – framing the face and never collapsing outwards or poking the chin. Simply excellent.
It was satisfying, as garments made very properly for you usually are. It was thrilling, as I used to be instantly trying ahead to sporting it. And it was a reduction, as the entire thing had been executed in per week and it had appeared unsure how it will prove.
That was all contained in that smile.
The impression has solely deepened since. The coat is minimize fairly large within the shoulders – undoubtedly the width to go over a B&Tailor already-wide-shouldered jacket – however it doesn’t really feel too huge. (There all the time a steadiness there, chopping it for various issues worn beneath, as mentioned right here.)
Maybe that impression will mellow. There’s all the time a little bit of an afterglow with a fee that has labored out properly, and proper now this appears excellent. Though, I’ve been sporting it since December and haven’t modified my view on something, besides that I mildly favor the Fox material used right here to this one.
I wore the coat most days at Pitti again in January – on the aircraft, rigorously folded within the rack above; strolling through the day, usually folded over my arm; and within the night wrapped up tightly in opposition to the chilly.
That additionally meant sporting it with a variety of outfits. Over a swimsuit and tie, over a jacket and flannels, and over a knit and denims. It did properly with all of them.
In our latest article on Cifonelli there was some dialogue about sporting a navy double-breasted coat casually, for instance with denims.
That is undoubtedly tougher to do than one with in a extra informal color, sample, materials, type and breast quantity. A single-breasted, raglan, tweedy, brownish herringbone could be simpler and extra versatile.
Though all these attributes don’t essentially have the identical impact – a navy single-breasted coat is arguably a worse match. There’s one thing a few DB that ups the ante, that makes it extra of a deliberate type, and simpler to put on with in a extra contrasting method in consequence.
However in any case, all we’re saying with that record is that these numerous attributes make a coat extra versatile with informal clothes – not that they’re the one possibility. In case you’re shopping for only one good coat, versatility must be a giant issue. However you probably have a couple of to play with, a navy DB with denims might be nice – as right here, with light-blue denim, then all navy and black elsewhere, easy and tonal.
(We’ll cowl black footwear with denims in one other submit, in any other case this one will get too far off matter.)
Within the context of our latest collection analysing overcoats, it’s fascinating how merely the B&Tailor is made. There are not any pleats within the again, in contrast to Ciardi, Liverano or Cifonelli; there’s only a central seam, operating down right into a pleat beneath the belt.
However there’s nonetheless loads of extra materials within the again, gathered into that belt, as you’ll be able to see within the numerous photos. This actually makes the again look dramatic (it helps that it’s minimize bigger anyway, as with the shoulders). The actual fact the belt is wider (8cm in comparison with 6-7cm on the others) additionally provides it a little bit character.
I can see fairly a couple of readers preferring extra styling parts, like a central field pleat, facet pleats, buttons on the belt and a buttoned vent (all of which B&Tailor can do). However I additionally like this less complicated course; actually, I’d cease wanting buttons on the belt, which appears to be the purpose the place it turns into overkill. A bit menswear 2010.
The make on the coat on the whole is superb. You may see how exact the buttonholes are within the photos above, and as we talked about in our latest piece on Korean tailoring typically, that’s one thing that has actually improved up to now decade.
The highest stitching on the sides is neat, the liner inside is completed properly, and there are good particulars just like the tiny tack sew on the turn-back cuff. It’s just about the extent of English tailors and higher than most Neapolitans.
The material is CT10, a Fox Brothers merino overcoating weighing 24/25oz. I actually like the load, however marginally favor the set (density) of the CT12 I used for my Ettore coat. As a result of that’s a tad looser, you see extra of the herringbone and the flannel end is rather less fluffy. The draw back is that CT12 is lighter at 20/21oz.
I ought to clarify, by the way in which, that I’d on no account recommend a reader ought to have so many DB navy coats! I went for one right here as a result of I believed it will greatest swimsuit the type I favored from B&Tailor, which its mixture of classic and fashionable formality. And overlaying the tailor one of the best ways is all the time the precedence when overlaying a primary fee on PS.
I’ve included a couple of footage right here of the 2 fittings I had in Seoul with Chad Park of B&Tailor and his father.
Each of those went very easily, and I significantly favored the way in which Chad used the yellow information (above) to point out me the place the height lapel would sit. I’ve come a cropper up to now attempting to think about that with just a few faint chalk.
On the idea of this expertise I can solely extremely advocate Chad and B&Tailor, and it’s nice to place to mattress points that they had in Europe up to now. I solely want they visited the UK for trunk exhibits (it’s at the moment solely New York, Beijing and Singapore).
Maybe if this goes down properly sufficient we are able to persuade them.
Outfit particulars for the checked jacket are as seen on this text. The denims are classic Levi’s, the knit and belt from Rubato.
Bespoke particulars:
- Fits begin at 4,000,000 KRW (£2360) in Seoul, my coat was 5,720,000
- Overseas, costs are set by the accomplice retailers – in New York (Discover of Look), Beijing (Precept M) and Singapore (Final & Lapel).
- Bespoke swimsuit worth in New York is $3800. The coat would have been $4500
MTM particulars:
- Fits begin at 2,800,000 KRW (£1655) in Seoul
- Overseas, costs are set by the accomplice retailers, as above.
- MTM swimsuit worth in New York is $2800
- Made to measure isn’t absolutely handcrafted, however remains to be executed in Korea to the identical type because the bespoke. It is usually supplied within the accomplice retailers exterior of trunk exhibits
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