Wine & Dine
Textual content and Pictures by Mallika Chandra.
Rehan Mehta, 31
East seventh Pizza & Deli
Location: Colaba
Speciality: Pizzas, sandwiches, burgers, puddings
Rehan, inform me about your journey as a chef.
The primary time I went to cooking faculty was after I completed my education in Mumbai. I had taken a spot yr in 2010 and I did a three-month course at Le Cordon Bleu London. That have truly made me not need to turn into a chef so I went to a liberal arts faculty within the US, the place I graduated in psychology.
In my third yr at school, I occurred to observe a video of Anthony Bourdain (the late superstar chef and journey documentarian) and David Chang (restaurateur and tv character) consuming at one in every of Chang’s New York eating places. That made me need to return to cooking. Actually, I felt like I simply couldn’t do anything! I enrolled within the cooking faculty David Chang had been to, which was the French Culinary Institute in New York. I had found a course that will enable me to take six months off from faculty, come again and nonetheless graduate on time. I cherished it there.
The way in which it labored in America on the time was that I had three months to discover a job after commencement. So I utilized to a bunch of locations. Lastly, through Craigslist, I bought a job as a pastry cook dinner at Momofuku Milk Bar in New York (now referred to as Milk Bar), although it wasn’t what I had particularly educated in. I used to be making cookies, muffins and bread and I nonetheless assume it’s one of the best job I’ve ever had. Sadly, I needed to depart after a yr as a result of they have been unable to sponsor my work visa.
Once I returned to Mumbai in 2015, I used to be given a job within the pastry division wherever I utilized due to my expertise at Momofuku Milk Bar. My first job was in Colaba on the modern-American restaurant Ellipsis (now shut), headed by Chef Kelvin Cheung. Chef Kelvin was a Milk Bar fan so he was eager to have me onboard. Sadly, he left the restaurant six months after I joined.
Then, in September 2016, I joined Masque in Mahalaxmi in Mumbai. Chef Prateek Sadhu and co-owner Aditi Dugar bought in contact with me whereas the restaurant was nonetheless underneath building. Even on my first go to, I may inform the kitchen and the house have been going to be particular. The primary yr of Masque was actually attention-grabbing however we have been struggling to determine our type or what may make it distinctive. Ultimately, Chef Prateek began digging deeper into his personal Kashmiri roots, and that’s when it actually took off. It made extra sense as a result of it was private and culturally related quite than simply attempting to be like many different Scandinavian-inspired tasting menu eating places. What I loved most from my time there was the truth that the cooks would serve all of the dishes and bought to work together with the purchasers, who have been often keen about meals, and that made it enjoyable. We additionally had lots of freedom to work on new dishes which stored issues attention-grabbing.
Later, I grew disillusioned with superb eating. I used to be eager on beginning one thing that might feed much more individuals. I thought of opening a sandwich store. I did a number of pop-ups and began searching for areas however nothing labored out. On the similar time, I heard in regards to the legendary chef Rahul Akerkar opening a brand new restaurant (Qualia) and I utilized for a place within the sizzling kitchen. I used to be accountable for the pasta part, which was superb as a result of I like working with dough and the pasta grew to become actually standard.
What led you to begin a cloud kitchen and the way did you plan to face out?
Quickly after I left Qualia, the pandemic struck, which rekindled the thought of a sandwich store since individuals have been hungry for well-executed consolation meals. There wasn’t actually a Western-inspired sandwich tradition in Mumbai on the time however as a result of individuals bought into baking bread in the course of the lockdown, a sandwich tradition was sure to comply with.
My unique sandwich store thought advanced to incorporate pizza. My considering was that pizza and sandwiches go hand in hand. I had eaten lots of nice pizza throughout my time in New York, which bought me obsessed — and in the course of the pandemic I began playing around with it, making it at house for my household. It was a no brainer to begin as a cloud kitchen on the time as a result of if there had been one other lockdown, you’ll be caught paying hire for a restaurant with out anybody coming in there. I discovered a spot in Colaba in December 2021.
How did you go about establishing your operations? What did you herald from previous expertise?
It took me three months to arrange the place. I used to be very finicky in regards to the kitchen being a sure means. I needed to discover the appropriate oven. I knew I didn’t need a wood-fired oven, I wished an electrical one. In New York, most of my favorite pizza locations used electrical ovens. Wooden hearth could be very charming, however I don’t assume it provides a lot when it comes to style. I really feel like you probably have the appropriate electrical oven, the pizza can style simply pretty much as good and it’s much more constant, which is necessary. Whenever you’re attempting to churn the pizzas out actually quick and have 10 to fifteen orders at a time, that wood-fired oven goes to be a ache and possibly a number of are usually not going to be pretty much as good as the remainder as a result of it’s so exhausting to take care of and management the warmth, in contrast to electrical ovens.
Having mulled over the thought of the sandwich and pizza store for therefore lengthy, what has the menu growth course of been like?
Once I began engaged on the recipes, I believed it could take possibly a number of weeks or a month, nevertheless it took me 5 months simply to determine a pizza dough that I used to be proud of. I did virtually 100 trials. I used to be simply making pizza day-after-day and attempting to determine it out. I by no means imagined how sophisticated it might be, on condition that it’s simply 4 substances that you simply’re working with. However, the best way you combine these substances, the proportions, how a lot water you add, which flour you utilize, how lengthy you ferment it — all these wanted to be discovered. Lastly, I settled on a dough after trial quantity 96. I wished to simplify the dough course of as a result of it’s necessary for my group to have the ability to execute it in addition to I might. That’s the reason I dominated out a sourdough pizza dough as a result of it has an excessive amount of margin for error. Now, we’re on pizza dough trial quantity 103. The pizza dough recipe continues to be referred to as a trial, although we’ve been open for a yr. And we hold making changes according to modifications within the climate to get that good gentle and ethereal but crispy pizza crust.
Subsequent got here the sandwich bread. We have been outsourcing the bread initially however the numbers didn’t work out. It was simpler to choose a recipe, nevertheless it nonetheless took a number of trials. We use a Vietnamese Bánh mì-style baguette. In comparison with a French baguette, it has a really skinny crust and a fluffy inside. The sandwiches bought rather a lot higher after we began making our personal bread.
The one factor I knew I had to determine was dessert. Most pizza locations serve dough balls with Nutella and stuff like that. However I wished one thing lighter. I believed an American-style pudding would match the invoice. Our lemon cheesecake and chocolate puddings do rather well. We had a strawberries-and-cream pudding and one with mango, which have been seasonal and actually standard. We’re utilizing fancy vanilla beans, however moreover that they’re primarily fruity, creamy and crunchy.
You place out a job opening on Instagram someday again and it communicated rather a lot in regards to the work tradition you are attempting to each desist from and construct. Was that intentional?
Most eating places I’ve labored at, the hours have been very lengthy, which has been the benchmark on this trade for ages. However I knew I didn’t need to do this. If I used to be doing that and we have been profitable and earning profits, I might have nonetheless thought-about it a failure as a result of an overworked group will not be an indication of success. To me, it makes monetary sense as effectively. For those who push individuals so exhausting, they’re simply going to get burnt out and depart in a number of weeks or months, or a yr. I might quite have individuals stick round for the lengthy haul, be comfortable, go house and never take into consideration work.
That’s why, in that hiring put up, I used to be specific that our shift lasts 10 hours solely. In actuality, it’s solely 9 hours, however I’ve accounted for some further time ought to we sometimes want it. Now, after operating this place for a yr and seeing how troublesome it’s to really generate income, I see why different restaurateurs demand such lengthy hours from their groups. If restaurant gross sales are usually not reaching their goal, the administration someway feels that making individuals work longer hours will increase gross sales. Nevertheless, whereas gross sales would possibly enhance within the quick time period, if targets are usually not met, it’s extra probably that there’s a downside with the product or expertise.
Had been you additionally intending to offer your prospects an perception into what sort of cloud kitchen it’s and the sort of individuals which might be making the meals?
That’s not why I posted it and I didn’t give it some thought on the time. I used to be simply attempting to rent an excellent candidate. However, after all, if I have been to see a enterprise posting one thing like this, I might be extra prone to attempt the meals and would attempt to order typically. Our restaurant trade doesn’t have one of the best fame. So, anybody who is aware of something about what goes on behind the scenes could be comfortable for issues to vary for the higher.
Who’s your typical buyer?
Sadly, most of our orders come from Swiggy they usually don’t share buyer information. It’s protected to guess that the general public ordering from us are sort of like pizza nerds, which appears to be each third individual these days. Most of our meals is New York-influenced. Those that’ve by no means had this type of meals are eager to attempt it. And people who have been to New York or Philadelphia and have had a cheesesteak sandwich, for instance, will even need to relive that have.
I’ve additionally deliberately not marketed East seventh Pizza & Deli rather a lot as a result of I’m nonetheless tweaking issues. I really feel prefer it’s all the time a piece in progress and I’m sort of a perfectionist; and I say that within the worst doable means. I’ll hold procrastinating with the advertising and marketing as a result of I feel possibly pizza dough trial 104 or 105 would be the good one after which we are able to actually push our advertising and marketing. At present, advertising and marketing has primarily been by phrase of mouth.
Is that additionally a results of the identify East seventh Pizza & Deli? Your official firm identify can be attention-grabbing.
You would say that. Our official firm identify is Very Informal Meals. I got here up with that identify after leaving Masque as a result of I used to be simply so tired of superb eating. It’s humorous to say that now, since Masque is likely one of the greatest eating places in India. I see myself sticking with quick informal or informal eating places with thoughtfully executed and ingredient-driven meals.
The identify East seventh was impressed by the road I lived on in New York. Whereas I used to be in cooking faculty, I lived on East seventh Road between 1st Avenue and Avenue A, which is within the East Village. And that one road had a lot good meals! You would stroll down the road in 90 seconds nevertheless it had lots of nice tiny institutions. And every of them specialised in only one or two issues. There was Luke’s Lobster, which made simply seafood sandwiches. There was a Venezuelan arepas place. The constructing I lived in had an Italian sandwich store referred to as Porchetta, which simply made a roast pork sandwich. Throughout the road was this soft-serve place referred to as Massive Homosexual Ice Cream, which bought actually funky tender serve. After which there was a Chinese language teahouse the place I might sit and drink tea. That road actually impressed me.
How would you describe what a deli is?
Within the New York sense, it’s your native sandwich place the place you decide lunch up on a piece day nevertheless it additionally might be the place you go to get primary groceries, possibly even some baked items, with out having to make a visit to the grocery store. Inside that, there are the bodega-style delis, the place the sandwiches are made merely, utilizing simply packaged substances. Then there are the old-school delis, which make all the pieces from scratch, like Katz’s Deli, which is legendary for pastrami. Russ & Daughters is actually well-known for his or her smoked fish. The deli tradition got here from the Jewish inhabitants of New York. However now it has turn into a pattern that has unfold the world over.
How do you construct belief as a cloud kitchen?
I’m very explicit about retaining the kitchen tremendous clear, and likewise about ensuring that substances are at their prime. That sense of hygiene was ingrained in me due to all my earlier work locations. Clearly, our meals security legal guidelines are usually not as strict or as strictly enforced over right here in India, as in comparison with New York, however I implement those self same requirements anyway.
How has juggling the roles of chef and enterprise proprietor been for you?
I want I may simply cook dinner and concentrate on the meals as a result of it could be a lot simpler. Half my time is spent managing individuals, although I solely have a group of 9. Simply attempting to maintain all of them on observe and coaching them retains me considerably occupied.
I’m horrible at advertising and marketing. In order that’s one other factor that I want I might simply not should do. I hold hoping that if my meals is nice sufficient, I received’t should do any advertising and marketing and folks will simply come anyway. And that’s clearly the dream. In New York, you probably have an incredible restaurant, even when it’s a tiny one, the phrase goes to unfold so quick that you simply’ll have queues down the highway. However over right here, I don’t assume that’s doable as a result of we’re providing a distinct segment product. Having stated that, I’m not essentially attempting to succeed in a large viewers. I’m simply looking for the appropriate individuals who need one thing scrumptious that’s made with care, consideration and good substances.
What ended up being simpler than you thought?
I don’t assume something has been simpler than I believed. Most issues have been tougher than I believed. Nevertheless, when somebody tries your meals, particularly if it’s a stranger, and tells you that they cherished it, you are feeling good and you are feeling prefer it’s all been price it.
What’s the good order from East seventh Pizza & Deli?
Our menu will not be very lengthy as a result of I need each merchandise to be tremendous scrumptious. A Ray’s Cheese Pizza, our model of a margherita with further buffalo mozzarella and parmesan cheese; a Pork Stomach Bánh mì, which is meaty and spicy; and a lemon cheesecake pudding!
Earlier: Kunal Makhija, Arabisque
Subsequent: Kartikeya Ratan and Rishabh Doshi, Kiki & Pastor