I’ve repeatedly worn T-shirts or crewnecks below tailoring over time. Not as continuously as a collared shirt, however while you’re at all times in search of extra methods to put on fits and jackets, the extra relaxed look of a T-shirt has perennial enchantment.
I’ve written earlier than about what sorts of T-shirts and sweaters work. Suggestions in that article embrace knitted tees over regular ones, the virtues of sample, and why double-breasted jackets will be simpler than single.
However one factor I haven’t spoken about a lot is the extent to which a T-shirt below a jacket is flattering or unflattering. Given that is usually the argument put in opposition to the look, I believed it was price a dialogue.
Collars are, normally, extra flattering on males. The collar frames the face, hides an extended or skinny neck, and creates that complimentary V down the entrance of the physique. Even when you have a shorter, wider higher physique, a smaller collar and the open entrance will usually be essentially the most flattering.
However some individuals want it greater than others. If you happen to’re thinner or much less muscular, there’s higher profit within the structured traces of by a shirt or a jacket (and certainly well-cut garments normally). I’m personally on the taller, slimmer aspect of the spectrum, with sloping shoulders, and know that normally a collared shirt is extra flattering on me.
I just like the picture above, for instance, pictured front-on in a knitted T-shirt and swimsuit. However the one beneath, exhibiting the identical outfit from the aspect, reveals one thing of what you lose with out that shirt collar, with my longer uncovered neck.
Different facets of your physique may also make a distinction – not simply shoulders, neck and normal upper-body.
For instance, as I’ve grown my beard out over time, I’ve seen that extra facial hair helps this type of look. Examine the 2 pictures beneath of me in navy jackets and navy tees, as an illustration. They’re not the identical angle, however I believe you may see that the second flatters greater than the primary. The beard helps fill in among the hole.
This is applicable to hair normally. It’s one purpose girls can get away with a higher vary of appears, and I’ve at all times thought it was why guys with longer hair discover it simpler to put on hats.
The hole can be stuffed by issues like scarves, or collars on the knits.
The flattering top of a half-zip is one purpose they’re so standard, for instance, and everyone knows how flattering a shawl-collared cardigan will be. Within the first outfit beneath the collar of my cardigan successfully replaces the collar, and within the second picture a shawl does the identical job.
The opposite choice is to show up the collar of a jacket, as I’m doing in the PS Shetland Tweed shoot on the backside. Ralph Lauren does this on all its mannequins, simply lifting the again of the collar to border the neck. However a popped collar will not be for everybody, or at all times applicable.
Now as with many issues in menswear, the hot button is to recognise these factors – then resolve whether or not you care.
On PS we’ve at all times argued that match us is an under-appreciated facet of clothes. However that doesn’t imply it’s the one one: high quality, relevance and private type will at all times be essential too.
With regards to T-shirts below fits, I put extra weight on bodily flattery than others and so more often than not put on a collared shirt. However I nonetheless swap it up generally, simply because I really feel prefer it that day. Flattery and magnificence swap locations, briefly, within the pecking order.
For ideas on what knits and tees look higher below tailoring, see earlier article right here.
For extra on the necklines of crewneck sweaters, and what flatters you, take a look on the article right here.
