In Japan earlier this 12 months I began the method of commissioning a pair of bespoke loafers from Seiji McCarthy.
Loafers are sometimes tough to make bespoke, and bespoke as an entire I’ve discovered slightly inconsistent, so why did I take this leap with Seiji?
Largely it was as a result of he affords one thing completely different – a specific love of American footwear corresponding to that made common by Alden, which he actually understands and likewise executes fantastically. Considered one of my favorite ever designs is the full-strap idler from Alden on the Aberdeen final but it surely’s by no means been a very good match for my toes. This was my alternative to get a greater model.
(That is an instance of Seiji’s beneath, adopted by my Aldens.)
However there have been different causes too. Seiji has ready-made fashions of his shoe which you could see in individual, not like some makers; he is an fascinating one to cowl due to that design angle and since he affords MTM and MTO alongside bespoke; and, a a lot underrated issue, we get alongside.
Seiji is slightly older, extremely educated {and professional}. He studied at Stanford and the LSE earlier than working for the NBA, leaving to review shoe design in Italy after which shoemaking.
We’re extra comparable, by way of cultural background and training, then I’m to most craftsmen, and I’ve discovered that is each good and useful: at a superficial stage, the chat is healthier; at a deeper one, it is simpler to debate issues with somebody you relate to.
I didn’t realise till we met in New York this previous October that Seiji initially studied to be a shoe designer. He had thought his connections on the NBA may assist as a marketplace for the footwear.
That did not actually work out. Seems a younger, financially flush sports activities star does not need to wait a number of months for a pair of gown footwear made by a model nobody has heard of.
However Seiji discovered his area of interest with bespoke shoemaking in Japan, the place he lived in his twenties and returned to seven years in the past (he has a Japanese mom and American father). He was additionally helped (as many bespoke makers have been) by Ethan Newton – the mannequin of idler I commissioned is even referred to as the ‘Ethan’.
Seiji has additionally simply moved to a much bigger workshop area (the images right here had been taken at his previous one) and has taken on two apprentices.
The preliminary measuring session (most photos proven) was fascinating, notably Seiji’s emphasis on tracing the profile of the foot (above). From a buyer perspective although, essentially the most sensible factor was attempting on sizing footwear (beneath). This actually makes it simpler to speak problems with match – nearly like having two fittings quite than one.
Once we had the precise becoming in New York this previous October, the footwear seemed good. As per my current Ugolini article, I used to be particular about what labored nicely for me throughout each classes: there wanted to be sufficient room for these toes to maneuver.
Initially the footwear felt slightly tight on the entrance, however Seiji ripped out a part of the insole so as to decrease my foot, and that was higher. (Not that the ultimate footwear will lack this insole – it was simply a great way to see what room was wanted.)
There was slightly dialogue about how a lot top to have over the massive toe vs the others, given they’re a lot decrease. To an extent you’ll be able to form the higher to present area to at least one and never the opposite, but it surely’s additionally one piece of leather-based and can transfer round. In the long run we opted for slightly extra room quite than much less.
And after the preliminary becoming, Seiji reduce the shoe aside at numerous factors (making it seem like a lady’s sandal) so as to see the place my foot was sitting inside.
Not each shoemaker does this, however I did see the benefit right here, as Seiji identified that my heel was sitting off the interior fringe of the insole. He additionally confirmed me the place you could possibly see on my ready-made footwear that my heel rubbed on this a part of the liner.
Changes shall be made, and I ought to have my closing footwear early subsequent 12 months.
On this expertise I will surely suggest Seiji, notably given how arduous loafers could be to suit. However I will do a full piece subsequent 12 months.
If anybody wish to learn extra about him, we additionally commissioned a function from a Japan-based author right here in 2022. And there’s a good piece right here on how Japanese shoemaking typically has modified in recent times.
Seiji now travels to the US annually for trunk reveals – presently New York and San Francisco however with plans so as to add others sooner or later.
Pricing and order sorts:
- MTO/MTM begins from JPY 280k (consists of lasted shoe timber)
- MTM is the MTO base value plus an extra JPY 5k per adjusted space on the final
- Bespoke begins from JPY 450k (additionally together with lasted shoe timber)
- That is ordering in Japan. Trunk present costs are round 15% greater.
- As a consequence of delays popping out of Covid, in addition to excessive demand, MTO/MTM supply is one 12 months and bespoke trial becoming is one 12 months with supply a 12 months after that
- However new apprentices are hoped to convey MTO/MTM supply down to 6 months and bespoke trial becoming to 6 months and supply six months after that
