PS Selvedge Chambray – Everlasting Model

Again in 2017, Jamie Ferguson and I visited cloth mills in Japan – like Hosoo, in Kyoto (pictured beneath), which produces probably the most extraordinary silks.

It was actually fascinating to see the weaving facet of Japanese heritage, and the sometimes progressive and detail-oriented method.

Though Japan does have mills that produce a full vary of tailoring and shirting fabric, it is truthful to say it is not typically a world chief in both. It is nonetheless catching up with Italy in that regard.

It’s, nonetheless, the most effective place on this planet to search out silk, denim and chambray.

I have been seeking to discover a good, narrow-loom chambray fabric for some time. 

I believed it might be a pleasant complement to the opposite PS oxfords and jeans; however I additionally needed one thing extra informal and open weave than the European mills sometimes supply to shirtmakers.

I used to be excited, subsequently, when 100 Palms mentioned final 12 months that that they had sourced the same chambray, as a part of a brand new jeans assortment.

The fabric was every little thing I had needed when it comes to texture and weave. And it was enhanced additional by being handled in 100 Palms‘ washing facility – a brand new operation that’s permitting them to garment wash bespoke shirts. 

The consequence is an extremely comfortable, narrow-woven materials that wears in superbly, getting higher with each put on and wash. 

Most Japanese chambrays are intently woven and a bit compact. The open weave of this one makes it softer and extra breathable, producing a stunning handfeel.

The classic shuttle looms additionally assist with that softness, giving the material a simple motion and stretch. 

The difficulty with narrow-loom Japanese materials is generally shrinkage, however that is the place the 100 Palms washing course of is useful. Their enzyme wash removes the shrinkage, stabilising the material in addition to eradicating any extra indigo. 

The fabric is a bit heavier than some summer time chambrays, at 143g/m. However its open weave makes it wearable just about all 12 months spherical. 

By way of color, it has the everyday indigo-and-white weave of chambray, which supplies it that denim-like type however flatter and subtly textured.

And it has the good element of a selvedge, which you’ll select to incorporate on a part of the shirt if you want.

I’ve seen shirts the place it’s used on the entrance edge, subsequent to the buttons – so it reveals the place the shirt is undone. I went for the subtler possibility of placing it on the within of the cuff placket. 

Whereas indigo chambray shouldn’t be as versatile a white or blue oxford, I do discover it goes with a variety of different colors.

It is nice with navy, denim, and darker shades of brown and inexperienced.

I additionally notably prefer it with cream, as proven above, and it really works with different pale colors like beige. Good for chinos and denims. 

It is undoubtedly an off-the-cuff cloth, however like denim, makes a pleasant distinction with softly lower tailoring as properly.  

I used to be anticipating to love the chambray with cream and navy, however the extra informal choices have been a pleasing shock. 

It shouldn’t have been, given chambray is such a mainstay of workwear wardrobes, however nonetheless it was good to see how good the material seemed with denim, with olive or khaki chinos, and with brown leather-based. 

Within the picture above, that is proven properly with it beneath a suede shirt-jacket from RRL. And it’s beautiful with a Valstarino or comparable blouson jacket as properly. 

A daily denim mixture for me now’s this chambray, my darker MTM Levi’s, and cordovan loafers. 

In the intervening time, we’re solely providing the chambray fabric, not accomplished shirts. The fabric is offered on the PS Store as per regular, right here.

The truth that it’s woven on conventional, slender looms means it’s far slower to provide, and we have to promote longer lengths – 2.5m relatively than the conventional 2m. That plus the washing and importing make the chambray relatively costlier than the opposite PS cloths, however we have decreased the margin to maintain it to £79 every.

As ever, if you wish to ship a size straight to a shirtmaker, please put them because the delivery handle; embody your title as a reference in that handle; and allow them to know it’s coming. 

And 100 Palms have the material already in inventory, so if you’d like a shirt made by them, simply contact them instantly – do not hassle ordering from the PS Store. They’re doing MTO and MTM remotely, in addition to distant bespoke orders for current clients.

Technical particulars:

  • Material is 100% cotton, 143 gram / Mtl (GSM 130)
  • Yarn rely 40/1 x 20/1
  • Width is 1.1m (being a classic loom) and is subsequently bought in lengths of two.5m, in contrast to the 2m of different PS cloths
  • Woven by Maruwa, Japan
  • Slim, classic looms with selvedge
  • Shrinkage needs to be the identical as any trendy, compact fabric, 1-2%

Garments pictured:

  • Suede shirt-jacket from RRL
  • Made-to-measure denims from Levi’s
  • Cashmere crewneck from Colhay’s
  • Cream corduroy trousers from Pommella

Pictures: Milad Abedi

Notice: We usually attempt to hold new product launches, and so corresponding articles, to 1 each three weeks or so. There shall be greater than that within the coming months, simply because nothing was manufactured for 3 months throughout lockdown, so now these delayed merchandise are arriving concurrently scheduled ones. Apologies prematurely, and hopefully readers will discover the articles and images fascinating, even when they don’t seem to be shopping for. Simon.


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