Some of the gratifying issues about having Ethan in the pop-up store final month was the chance to strive on the total Bryceland’s vary.
Ethan was fairly common with readers through the day, however there would usually be half an hour earlier than we opened – or maybe within the early afternoon – the place I might strive stuff on and quiz him about it.
A few of the items had been a bit conventional of their stye for me, however each one had the identical thoroughness of thought and high quality of supplies that we now affiliate with Bryceland’s.
I’ll begin, nevertheless, with the Sawtooth Westerner shirt (pictured above), because it’s the one piece I’ve had for some time and worn often.
Designed after a classic piece (as most Bryceland’s issues are), the Sawtooth is a heavy denim shirt with western particulars and lengthy fronts and tails.
The latter element is a classic one, but additionally one which makes the shirt most fascinating to followers of tailoring – because it makes the shirt a lot simpler to maintain tucked in to a pair of trousers.
The collar is a bit low to comfortably sit above tailoring jackets, however it may be folded a bit greater on the neck to make this simpler, and it has a comparatively trim match, which once more helps beneath tailoring.
I’m sporting a 38 within the pictures right here, which is nearly OK on the shoulders, and a pleasant match via the waist. The 40 is maybe higher on the shoulders, however a bit cumbersome within the waist.
The very first thing you discover in regards to the Sawtooth, although, is how stiff it’s. It’s merely uncomfortable the primary time you put on it.
However after 2 or 3 washes and wears, it softens markedly, and solely feels nicer and softer over time – in addition to beginning to fade properly on the edges and seams.
The method is much like sporting in raw-denim denims, which can usually really feel nicer than pre-washed fashions over years. A denim that begins stiff like that creases extra sharply, creating edges that take extra abrasion and expose the white core of the yarn, and leaving the lows deeper and darker.
Mine, pictured, has most likely been washed and worn 10-12 instances. Ethan’s, which he wears twice per week and by no means bothers to iron – simply machine washing and drying – is even higher, and had a number of prospects within the pop-up asking if they might purchase it.
Curiously, nevertheless, Ethan was eager to supply a shirt that displays the wearer – how they put on it and wash it – relatively than a denimhead’s final material.
So whereas the denim comes from a small family-owned mill in Okayama, it’s intentionally one with out loads of slubbiness or streaking – usually issues denim obsessives like – and relatively one thing simple to make use of and put on.
As Ethan places it: “The straightforward care, rugged and no nonsense nature of our material decisions tends to increase throughout every part we make. We favour material that may age dependant on how it’s worn, that’s simply washed and dried, and that may get higher with age.
“I discover myself selecting camel hair or shetland wools over cashmere, oxford cloths over poplins, cordovan over french calf. Our informal vary is nearly solely made in Japan with Japanese woven material in weights that err in the direction of the heavier facet for sturdiness.”
Frankly, at this level the Sawtooth is considered one of my favorite issues to put on with extra informal clothes. It feels extremely acquainted, suits effectively, and is vintage-styled with out being excessive.
It’s fascinating to match it to a number of the different Bryceland’s shirts, which whereas I love for the make, are too stylised for my style. The Cabana shirt and Rayon shirt each have beautiful particulars, like the skinny band-like cuffs, however have a collar that’s too massive for me.
And I used to be within the black model of the Sawtooth (a tribute to ‘The Man in Black’, Johnny Money) however black could be too laborious to suit into the remainder of my wardrobe – given it largely consists of brown sneakers and different heat tones of basic menswear.
If the match works for you, although, the extra sartorial tab-collar and button-down Bryceland’s shirts are good. And certainly I actually appreciated the styling of the USN chambray shirt – the match simply did not work.
(Match issues relatively much less in a heavy shirt just like the Sawtooth, because it’s by no means going to have a clear drape in any match, and reveals tightness much less too.)
Most likely my favorite piece I purchased through the pop-up was Bryceland’s RAF Rollneck Pullover (above).
This can be a misleading piece. It seems easy: a standard lambswool rollneck, made in Scotland. However the physique form is a classic one, with a really slender waist and tall rib.
That rib is tremendous stretchy. By some means it manages to be an in depth match on me, enlarging into an enormous, flattering chest and shoulders, but nonetheless suits somebody like Ethan.
It’s the one match of sweater I’ve ever discovered that’s good and trim via the waist, but roomy on the high, and has sufficient materials to not journey up whenever you transfer. The proper mixture.
In fact different vintage-inspired manufacturers have finished this reduce – I used to have a striped one from North Sea Clothes. However these are normally in heavier, coarser wools, and albeit are solely useable as outerwear.
The opposite items I wished to strive on the pop-up, and hadn’t finished earlier than, had been the Chore Coat and Sort 1 denim jacket (above).
The Chore Coat I used to be to put on over tailoring. However whereas the fabric was nice (each white herringbone and jelt denim – a crisp, light-weight denim with pure slubbiness) the match was too A-line for me.
The Sort 1 jacket I might put on over a shirt, as a mid-layer beneath a coat. This was relatively quick within the physique, and apparently will get shorter when washed. It was subsequently marginal whether or not it might work on me given my peak.
However I attempted it with greater waisted trousers and the size was OK, in order that turned my second buy. I used to be additionally taken (as I ought to have anticipated) by the unique iron buttons, that are designed to rust barely over time.
Elsewhere, the Military Chinos I discovered too outsized within the leg, and a really excessive rise (slightly below the ribs). Equally the Gurkha Shorts.
The Denim 133 denims are much less excessive than the chinos – excessive however not so excessive, fairly straight within the leg – however I couldn’t justify getting any extra denims.
And within the photos of myself sporting the Sawtooth shirt, I am additionally sporting a Lee Kung Man undershirt: a Hong Kong model that Bryceland’s carries.
That I’ve discovered to be nice, its idiosyncrasy being that it is vitally tight on the arm and armpit whenever you first put it on – however this really stops it transferring round in any respect, making it very snug as underwear.
Lastly, I’ve tried the Bryceland’s boxer shorts, that are fantastically made (take a look on the overlapping tabs on the waistband on the again) however have a excessive rise that I discover solely works with equally high-rise trousers.
Bryceland’s tends to do small runs of merchandise, and particular person sizes are generally out of inventory. Instagram is normally one of the best place to see what’s coming again into inventory – though some issues, just like the Sawtooth and the Denim 133 denims, aren’t normally unavailable for lengthy.
Within the photos of me I’m additionally sporting:
Images: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man besides these within the pop-up, Buzz Tang.
For background on Bryceland’s Co, examine my go to to them in Japan right here.
