“Oh, that’s cosy.”
“It is like being wrapped up in an enormous tweedy blanket.”
“I may go to sleep within the nook like this.”
I’ve by no means performed a pop-up the place I had the pattern of a brand new launch for folks to strive on, and will see their reactions. In New York final month I did, and people have been among the first issues folks stated after they placed on this, our new ‘English Tweed’ overcoat.
I believed these particular reactions have been attention-grabbing as a result of they spotlight a key distinction between this and the PS Donegal. This can be a thick, cosy, winter overcoat. It’s one thing to wrap your self up in, to really feel cocooned, to step out into the chilly when you’ll be able to see your breath.
We’ve by no means performed an actual winter coat on PS so it was one thing I wished to do that yr. Inspiration got here when I discovered an outdated British mannequin from 1980 in a classic retailer. It was giant, slouchy, with a frighteningly low buttoning level and a droopy collar. It was a bit of an excessive amount of for at present – a bit of too interval – however with some updates it has impressed one thing actually distinctive and fashionable.
The coat remains to be massive. Massive again, lengthy physique, beneficiant sleeve. It suits over every little thing, cinches within the heat, and buttons all the way in which as much as the chin. However we moderated that collar form, so it now has a satisfying line that runs alongside the sting of the collar after which all the way in which down the lapel (beneath).
Then with fingers within the coat pockets, it additionally has a fantastic form to the entrance. You may see that within the picture above: lengthy strains from every lapel, stitched to maintain them lengthy and straight.
However you can too button or belt it in a number of methods. The buttoning level (the center of the three) remains to be pretty low – one of many issues that offers the coat greater than a bit of of a louche Armani really feel.
You may fasten it there, with the belt secured on the again, and go in your means (beneath). Or you are able to do the other, and simply use the belt: cinching it throughout these lengthy open lapels and giving it a thrown-on gown look (second picture).
That is what I like a couple of unfastened, unstructured double-breasted coat: this playfulness and ease.
You don’t get it a lot with tailor-made overcoats, however you do with a basic raincoat: there are such a lot of methods to put on it, a lot persona you can provide it.
On the belt, it’s vital to notice that it doesn’t have a prong or holes. It’s so thick it doesn’t want them. As a substitute, you set the belt by the buckle and pull it again on itself, tucking it both within the loop on the aspect (beneath) or by itself.
I discover this actually satisfying – much less fussy and easier than knotting. The truth is it’s a great way to safe the belt on the again too, should you don’t wish to use it. Pull the buckle to 1 aspect, then put the opposite finish by the other loop, again by the buckle, and tuck it in.
I’ve included a couple of photos on the backside of those numerous beltings and buttonings, as I knew readers would ask. However I can do a extra specific article in some unspecified time in the future if that’s useful.
OK let’s speak concerning the fabric, because it’s stunning and simply as important to how the English Tweed overcoat is completely different to the Donegal.
This materials is heavier, tweedier and spongier. It weighs 800g in comparison with the 720g of the Donegal, however feels a lot hotter due to the open means it’s woven – extra like a tweed – in addition to the double fronts and belt.
Which will get us to the identify. I believed ‘English Tweed’ was good as a result of it recollects all of the English facets that make it up. It makes use of undyed wool from English sheep – the dark-brown, cream and gray yarns you’ll be able to see in it are the pure colors of the sheep themselves.
It was spun in England, and that yarn was woven by Marling & Evans in Huddersfield – earlier than being assembled by Personal White VC down the highway in Manchester. Add the truth that it was designed by us in London, utilizing a chunk of English classic as inspiration, and you’ve got a really Anglo creation. If there have been such a factor as an English tweed, this might be it.
The truth is there’s a outstanding story about that classic piece that impressed it, and its connection to PWVC and M&E, however I would save that for a later date. There are too many questions buzzing round my head that I do know readers shall be asking.
So this coat is clearly completely different in fashion, in weight, in season from the Donegal. However given the patterns are pretty related (smaller herringbone, darkish brown moderately than black, completely different texture, however nonetheless) do I believe a reader may personal each?
Many readers, sure. I’ve each and love each – I wouldn’t wish to hand over both. I additionally know a number of readers may have only one or two good coats although, and are solely starting on constructing a superb wardrobe. For them, I can see they may not need each. For everybody else, I believe they’d get pleasure from each.
And naturally many readers don’t have that individual Donegal, have it in different colors, or certainly (shockingly) personal no Donegal in any respect.
I believe this slouchy, low-slung slice of basic menswear appears to be like finest in a brown-and-grey herringbone. It fits the classic-but-casual look, in addition to the echoes of early eighties fashion. As ever, the purpose of the PS Store is to supply stunning distinctive items, moderately than fill out a wardrobe or a ‘assortment’.
Let’s summarise the opposite design parts. Some shall be acquainted to readers from different coats, however some are a bit of completely different:
- Cashmere-lined pockets. (So satisfying to plunge your fingers in on a chilly day.)
- And so they’re by pockets, with entry to massive buckets on the within – as proven above. (That’s the place my gloves go, or a hat.)
- Two slanted pockets behind the lapels. (For simple entry to cellphone, pockets and so forth.)
- Wrist straps to slender the sleeve towards the chilly. (I additionally discover I maintain them wider once I’m carrying a jacket beneath.)
- Stand-up collar. (With crescent inserted on the again so it truly stands.)
- Two-hole matte horn buttons. (Attention-grabbing how I’ve seen this cropping up across the place now.)
As with the very best menswear, just about all kind by perform.
I’ve proven the coat right here with a spread of outfits, as an instance the way it works with a go well with and tie, and a T-shirt and denims.
The primary outfit is a navy knit and black denims, although the latter may simply be charcoal flannels for one thing smarter. Then there’s a brown go well with with a white shirt and tie, and with out the tie. And lastly a white T-shirt, blue denims and loafers – essentially the most informal of the lot.
Just like the not too long ago launched raincoat, it’s very satisfying to have the ability to put on a coat this casually. (Even when the climate would imply I might normally put on it with a hoodie or sweatshirt, moderately than only a T-shirt.)
It’s not laborious for a model to make a DB coat. They discover an outdated picture, give it to a manufacturing facility, decide a inventory fabric and put it on e-comm. However with out good design, the manufacturing facility may make the sleeve too slim, or put the belt too excessive, or shorten the size as a result of it’s what ‘everybody’ is doing.
Good design is about considering by each side of a chunk like a DB, and making acutely aware aesthetic decisions. That is what makes a chunk really feel completely different while you put it on, and why it stays a favorite after 5, 10, 20 years of wear and tear. It turns into the piece you stay up for carrying each season, and even a reference for everybody else.
I’m not going to say that’s what our new coat essentially is – that’s for readers to resolve – however in an age when there are many manufacturers promoting plenty of coats, all self-referencing and even undercutting one another, it’s good design that basically stands out. That plus high quality are what are definitely worth the cash in the long term.
The English Tweed overcoat, splendidly made by Personal White VC in Manchester, is on the PS Store website now priced £1042 (plus taxes). It is going to ship to everybody subsequent week. In case you have any questions, do ask within the feedback beneath.
Particulars:
- Low-slung, slouchy double-breasted raglan coat
- Made out of undyed English wool, woven in Huddersfield by Marling & Evans
- Belt with leather-based buckle, unholed to double again on itself
- Two-hole matte horn buttons
- Cashmere-lined hip pockets, each with by pockets to bigger pockets inside
- Two inbreast slanted pockets
- Manufactured by Personal White VC in Manchester
Match:
- A beneficiant physique match and size, designed to be cinched for heat
- Within the photos Simon wears a Medium (4)
- He wears a dimension 40 (50 European) go well with jacket and is six ft tall (183cm)
- Suits the identical dimension as different Personal White-made outerwear (aside maybe from the Bridge Coat)
- If unsure, evaluate measurements to a coat you already personal, allowing for the match is supposed to be beneficiant. Don’t fear if it appears to be like or feels a bit of massive
- Chest is measured 2.5cm beneath underarm; waist at 47cm down centre again; size from backside of collar on the again, to hem
Measurement chart:
| X-Small/2 | Small/3 | Medium/4 | Giant/5 | X-Giant/6 | XX-Giant/7 | |
| Chest | 52cm | 54.5 | 58 | 61.5 | 65 | 68.5 |
| Waist | 53 | 55 | 59 | 62.5 | 66 | 69.5 |
| Backside hem | 60 | 62.5 | 66 | 69.5 | 73 | 76.5 |
| Size | 115.5 | 116 | 117 | 118 | 119 | 120 |
| Sleeve | 82 | 83 | 84.5 | 86 | 87.5 | 89 |
| Cuff (width) | 16.8 | 17.1 | 17.5 | 17.9 | 18.3 | 18.7 |
Alterations:
The English Tweed overcoat is made to be straightforward to change.
- Minimize a bit of longer than most fashionable overcoats, each to be extra sensible and flattering
- However can simply be shortened by a tailor – a superb 10cm with out interrupting the steadiness or making the again pleat look too brief
- May also be lengthened barely if wanted, by round 4cm. Inlay is left for that function
- The sleeves may also be lengthened by round 3cm, and they are often shortened. Shortening by 2cm can be straightforward – greater than that will require the wrist strap to be moved, however that’s not an enormous job for a tailor
- The physique may also be narrowed, however this is not essentially really helpful, because the fashion is meant to be roomy. We wouldn’t counsel taking greater than an inch on both sides (nonetheless 4 inches in circumference)
