When Nicola Brognano exited Blumarine on the finish of 2023, a query mark held on the destiny of the Y2K aesthetic the Italian designer dropped at the model. The appointment of Walter Chiapponi as his successor suggests the label will seemingly pursue a extra refined, understated path – one which’s so on-demand proper now.
Earlier than Blumarine’s new chapter kicks off subsequent month with Chiapponi’s debut, the in-house design workforce was tasked to ferry the label between tenures with a transitional assortment. It hit a candy spot by already providing a extra elevated and bourgeois picture with out forgetting the teachings Brognano’s period imparted and that propelled Blumarine’s revamp.
Model signatures reminiscent of female clothes, fuzzy knits, lingerie-inspired particulars, rose elaborations and leopard motifs have been restated with wearability in thoughts, translating into credible seems that would exist past an Instagram submit.
Fluffy jacquard cardigans and twin units with floral patterns evoked Blumarine’s heyday, whereas its femininity and romantic nature was exalted through hand embroideries on Lolita-like frocks, flower prints on ankle-gazing satin clothes, and maxi bows popping up on a cool wool quantity. Marabou finishes added a frou-frou contact to many items, together with a pair of knickerbockers, an merchandise that Brognano exhumed from trend oblivion final 12 months.
Different key components of Brognano’s lexicon – cargo pants and denim – have been up to date and softened of their look, with the previous stripped again of their uncooked, road angle for a leaner enchantment and the latter bearing satin and lace inserts for extra delicacy.
Ribbed knits, leggings, and burgundy vinyl units and trench coats rounded out the gathering, which provided a fairly palate cleanser.