Our seasonal abstract of issues I’ve seen and appreciated rolls round once more, and as ever is an efficient mechanism to reply questions on new merchandise from established manufacturers, such because the Metropolis Moc from Saman Amel (above).
But it surely’s additionally, by design, a mixture of the outdated and the brand new, so there are each the anticipated names of Rubato and Drake’s, in addition to the less-discussed Buck Mason or Novesta.
I hope you discover one thing for you. All questions within the feedback please, to be fortunately and completely answered.
Buck Mason Rambler suede jacket
$698
My dimension: Massive (dimension up)
I met the Buck Mason guys at Pitti final January, and Lucas and I each tried a number of merchandise. I’ve to say we have been each impressed by the worth/high quality ratio. This isn’t a Japanese model making the best replica high quality, however it’s additionally half the worth and most issues have been nicely achieved.
I used to be significantly impressed by the suede ‘Rambler’ trucker jacket. As I commented in the piece on Massimo Dutti, leather-based and suede usually are not a simple factor to do at a lower cost, and I even have an authentic ‘huge E’ Levi’s one, so might examine first hand.
You positively lose one thing by not going for these top-end Japanese manufacturers, but when that’s out of your value vary Buck Mason are a great possibility, and examine very favourably with somebody like RRL.
£305
My dimension: Medium (regular dimension)
Staying with the Americana theme, a couple of readers requested about this new mannequin from Rubato – their model of a western shirt, in black, white and indigo. I attempted the black, and it’s precisely what you count on from Rubato – nice high quality with refined type.
The benchmark for a lot of might be the Sawtooth Westerner from Bryceland’s, which I even have, and that is lighter in weight, in addition to dialling down a number of the western parts – one snap on the pockets, two on the cuff. I’d say it’s an awesome selection for anybody that finds the heavier Sawtooth just a little an excessive amount of. My black can also be fading properly after a few washes.
My dimension: 44 (dimension up)
My favorite trainers have lengthy been a collaboration between Mizuno and Margaret Howell, and readers usually ask what else I’d suggest, as these are solely in black or white and never all the time accessible.
The Marathon from Novesta is an efficient one – slim, refined and properly made. Trunk had them beforehand in bolder colors, however the present gray and beige are extra versatile and I ended up getting the beige. It’s an awesome color mixture, significantly the black across the edges.
Not all sizes are at the moment accessible at Trunk, however there are many different colors and sizes accessible on the Novesta website and thru locations like Finish.
New & Lingwood band-collar shirt
£155
My dimension: Medium (regular dimension)
I’ve been actually focused on how New & Lingwood have developed over the previous couple of years. They’re doing extra tailoring, extra subtle supplies, and extra traditional menswear, maybe within the course of filling a number of the hole left by manufacturers like Drake’s going extra informal. It is easy to neglect, for instance, that till just lately they solely did silk robes, however now supply cashmere, linen seersucker; the tailoring has expanded in the identical approach.
Over the winter I picked up a raglan coat from them in a very sturdy however tasteful examine, for instance, which is the form of factor you hardly ever see wherever else lately – conventional outfitters do not have the identical style degree and trendy ones are too modern and protected.
The present New & Lingwood assortment has some good linen fits – in jut the appropriate shade of darkish brown or darkish inexperienced – wearable colors of towelling shirts, and nice linen shirts. I’ve been after a linen band-collar one for some time, in addition to a plain spread-collar silk, and so they had each.
Drake’s cotton-twill Video games Blazer
£795
My dimension: 40 (regular dimension)
Talking of Drake’s, they just lately restocked the Video games Blazer within the cottons I missed out on final yr, once I received my corduroy. Each the cotton twill and canvas are beautiful, machine cleanable and certainly fading nicely when washed.
I get numerous questions from readers about the place they’ll get a less expensive model of the Video games Blazer, and also you simply can’t, except you go for a bog-standard chore coat. What units the Video games aside is design and sometimes supplies, and that’s one thing most different manufacturers don’t put right into a chore. The supplies are the identical ones from the identical bunches, and the design is simply straight up-and-down.
The Drake’s is unquestionably costly, however to my thoughts design-led manufacturers like this justify their value after they set themselves aside in these two areas.
Saman Amel Metropolis Moc (and Quoddy/Beige)
€600
My dimension: 43 (regular dimension) within the Saman and 10 US (dimension up) within the Quoddy
I noticed these on the current Saman Amel trunk present, simply earlier than they have been attributable to go on sale, and was fairly excited. There’s an actual hole there – a shoe that’s nearly as comfy as a coach, however nearly as good as a idler, and naturally fashionable.
They seemed actually good on Dag and Dom with their fits and I appreciated the modern, elevated design. They didn’t work on me in the identical approach (with tailoring) I believe as a result of each of the fellows like their trousers vast and the sneakers seemed nice simply poking out of their hems. However as a shoe to put on with one thing extra good/informal or informal/stylish – like good chinos and a cashmere knit – I believe they’d be nice. It is one thing I will attempt once more when the brand new showroom opens (on Albemarle Road) in June.
I additionally just lately tried the boat sneakers that Beige in Paris is doing as a collaboration with Quoddy. These are chunkier and never as luxe, however as with Saman the black possibility is absolutely attention-grabbing – it takes away all potential old-mannish associations. The Beige guys have additionally made some refined however efficient selections, corresponding to placing silver {hardware} on the black leather-based, fairly than gold, and white stitching fairly than yellow.
Silver Ostrich ostrich-leather belt
€440
My dimension: 90 (regular dimension)
I’ve by no means truly written about Silver Ostrich, though I’ve had their belts for some time. A lot of the types are just a little a lot for me, and my brown-suede ‘Versailles’ (beneath) is one thing I put on solely once I desire a explicit look (and 20 instances lower than my Rubato in the identical materials).
However my current, nice discovery was that the brown ostrich-leather (above) is definitely simpler to put on than plain suede, and ages very properly. The sample is kind of refined and assorted, but additionally not the usual suede, leather-based or croc. I’ve it in the Amboise type and now put on it fairly greater than my suede, largely with denims. Sadly the very fact it’s an unique makes it a degree costlier.
